Dovrefjell
A Journey to Norway's Majestic Mountain World
I've always been adventurous - a creative soul, driven by curiosity and a strong desire to explore the unknown, which nurtures me with knowledge and helps me grow and develop as an individual.
My personal journey has taken me from the hustle and bustle of the city to the tranquility of small-town life, and now I reside in the countryside, which feels like a natural fit. My love for nature has been within me since childhood when my father introduced me to fishing and spending time outdoors. Since then, I've always been drawn to return and make small excursions. Amidst the trees and the sound of the rapids, I find a peaceful silence that embraces me.
Over time, my interest in nature has merged with my creative side and curiosity to learn new things. When I'm out experiencing nature, preferably with a camera in hand to easily capture beautiful moments, I feel that these elements harmonize with each other. That's when I'm at my best. My goal with photography is to explore, experience, and capture moments that I eagerly share with you. Through my pictures, I hope to encourage and inspire you and others to discover the wonderful and meaningful aspects of nature.
Building upon this foundation, I invite you to join me on my first journey to Dovrefjell.
Dovrefjell, located in Norway, is one of the country's most magnificent natural areas and has been a national park since 2002. The area is characterized by breathtaking mountain landscapes and rich biodiversity. One of the most prominent features of Dovrefjell is the presence of majestic musk oxen, which have become symbols of the area's unique character. Dovrefjell is one of the few places where you can still experience these iconic animals in their natural habitat.
My first visit to Dovrefjell was with my friend Joris, a nature photographer I met in Finland when I was there photographing bears. Since then, we have made many excursions together and grown very close. We enjoy being out in nature and photographing in all seasons, but there's something truly special about the winter landscape – from the misty morning light in the countryside to the icy days with fantastic clarity, to the snow-covered hills and peaks. Snow and frost create a wonderful atmosphere that we love to capture in photographs.
Joris had talked a lot about the musk oxen before this trip and how much he wanted to photograph them. He showed pictures on Instagram taken by other photographers, but it wasn't until he showed a YouTube clip by Morten Hilmer (a professional nature photographer from Denmark) that I was convinced of his vision. Morten Hilmer is known for his work with Arctic nature and wildlife. Through Instagram, we connected with Even and Jorunn, who run the company Moskusguiden. They specialize in guided tours to experience Arctic wildlife and nature. We started communicating on Facebook, and it ended with us booking three days with Even as our guide in Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National Park.
One sentence that stayed with me for a long time was: "Your mind can play tricks on you."
I remember the questions Even asked us at the beginning: 'Are we in good physical shape?' and 'Have we hiked in demanding terrain and harsh climates before?'. I, who hadn't exercised at all during the pandemic and had never hiked with heavy gear, thought: "How hard can it be?". Even was thorough in informing us about everything we needed, from clothing and shoes to camera equipment. We drove from Västerås to Dovrefjell in less than 10 hours. Driving through Norway is magical, and time flies by. The landscapes are so beautiful that the sense of time disappears.
Arriving in Dovre, we could see the beautiful mountain landscape, and we decided to stop for a short while to photograph the magnificent view along the way. It was 17:38 on February 24, 2022, when we stepped out of the car to take photos. I barely lifted the camera before I felt the icy wind piercing through me. I don't know if it was because we had been sitting in the car for hours, were exhausted from many hours of driving, or if the mountain was welcoming us in its own way.
Arriving at the cabin that Even had arranged for us, we met him. We unloaded our gear and then ate together with Even, Jorunn, and two other photographers who would also participate in the guided tour. Even and Jorunn are two people who radiate humility and kindness and took good care of us throughout our stay. At the dinner table, we began discussing the next day's first session, what we could expect, and what we should keep in mind. One sentence that stayed with me for a long time was: "Your mind can play tricks on you." Even meant that the cold and the falling snow, along with the strong wind, could feel uncomfortable and in some cases lead to panic attacks, especially for beginners like Joris and me because the unfamiliar situation in the extreme environment can create a sense of insecurity and fear. Then it was important to breathe and not let negative thoughts take over. Då gällde det att andas och inte låta de negativa tankarna ta över.
That night we had trouble falling asleep. We were tired and exhausted from the long car ride, but at the same time, we were so excited about the first trip to the mountains.
We got up early to have breakfast, refill our coffee and water. My pack consisted of two camera bodies (a Canon R5 and a Canon 5D Mark IV), two lenses (a Canon EF 500 mm F4, a Canon 70-200 F2.8), extra batteries, a down jacket, an extra wool sweater, heat packs, thermal pants, three thermos flasks (two with water and one with coffee), a few sandwiches, bars, and some bananas. The backpack felt quite heavy, so I decided to leave my tripod in the cabin. Joris insisted on taking his tripod. We discussed the pros and cons, weighed the advantages and disadvantages. Sure, a tripod makes it easier, especially in strong winds, but the tripod weighed about 3.5 kg together with the video head. It was a weight that would feel heavy when hiking for hours.
I was unprepared, and right there and then, I felt my breathing gradually becoming more intense.
We drove to a parking lot. It was about 7:00, and it was really cold (about -15°C). Even though the thermometer showed -15°C, it felt much colder than that because of the biting wind sweeping through the area, enhancing the feeling of coldness. I wore a windbreaker and wind pants, and underneath, I had thermal underwear and a thinner wool sweater. We put on snowshoes (the first time for me) and adjusted our backpacks, took hiking poles, and started walking towards the mountain. At the national park, Even stopped to explain the setup: "First, we climb up this hill, it takes about an hour before we reach the mountain. Along the way, we take short breaks to adjust, breathe, and avoid sweating too much." With clear instructions, we started our hike. The temperature felt acceptable at first. The weight of the backpack felt manageable, and the terrain felt good. It was really cold, but I knew I would warm up. Everything was going well until we started to ascend steep trails. I was unprepared, and right there and then, I felt my breathing gradually becoming more intense. The higher we climbed, the more apparent it became. My physical condition wasn't quite at its peak.
Once at the top, we took a short break, drank water, put on ski goggles, and started walking on the mountain. What a view. Magical, as if I were in a grand film. Everything felt new, mysterious, and exciting, even though my physicality wasn't at its best. We continued hiking on the mountain to find the musk oxen. Even checked on us regularly to make sure everything was okay. I, as inexperienced but still stubborn, might have bitten off more than I could chew. And let's not talk about my equally stubborn friend Joris, who was unwavering in his decision to drag his tripod along. Being unfit, hiking with heavy gear, and being in demanding terrain with tough weather conditions constitute a combination that can be both mentally and physically challenging, but all I thought about, as the beginner I was, was to see these magnificent animals and take beautiful pictures.
About two hours into the hike, the strong wind hit us. Never before had I experienced such powerful winds. I, who just two years ago was a typical city kid from central Sweden, was used to what I considered "normal" winters. For me, a normal winter means around 0 degrees in the city, with little snow and hardly any wind. It was a completely different experience. The wind swept over the beautiful landscape, and I felt it hitting my jacket with a chilly force. Even though I wasn't really cold, I still felt a certain discomfort, as if my brain were trying to trick me into feeling cold. We continued to climb up the mountain, and the higher we got, the more exhausted I felt. Every step felt heavier. Thoughts about how the strong wind might have fooled me, if I was freezing to death, if I wouldn't be able to make it back, and if this was the end, began to creep in. The feeling of discomfort grew stronger as Even's words echoed within me; "Your mind can play tricks on you."
About two hours into the hike, the strong wind hit us. Never before had I experienced such powerful winds. I, who just two years ago was a typical city kid from central Sweden, was used to what I considered "normal" winters. For me, a normal winter means around 0 degrees in the city, with little snow and hardly any wind. It was a completely different experience. The wind swept over the beautiful landscape, and I felt it hitting my jacket with a chilly force. Even though I wasn't really cold, I still felt a certain discomfort, as if my brain were trying to trick me into feeling cold. We continued to climb up the mountain, and the higher we got, the more exhausted I felt. Every step felt heavier. Thoughts about how the strong wind might have fooled me, if I was freezing to death, if I wouldn't be able to make it back, and if this was the end, began to creep in. The feeling of discomfort grew stronger as Even's words echoed within me; "Your mind can play tricks on you."
After about three hours of hiking and still no musk oxen in sight, the wind made it difficult to see. It took longer than expected for us to reach the top. I looked at Joris, who seemed calm. Tired, but calm. Everyone else seemed to keep their spirits up too. It felt like I was the only one who wanted to give up and turn back, but how would I explain that to the others? Would they cancel because of me?
It felt like I was the only one who wanted to give up and turn back, but how would I explain that to the others? Would they cancel because of me?
When we reached another mountain peak, Even wanted us to take a short break, eat something, and drink water and coffee. I wasn't hungry; my only focus was to stay calm and not show how I really felt, but it was when we stood there on the mountaintop that I realized the facts and truly overwhelmed by them - panic! I wanted to go down to the car, back to the cabin, and never return to the mountain. Destructive thoughts began to take over, but I caught myself and decided they wouldn't win over me. As we continued the hike, I walked by myself, focused on thinking positively and breathing in and out. I would overcome the darkness in my mind, and if the rest of the group could handle our hike, so could I. I was tired and cold, but I wouldn't give up.
After a while, Even asked us to wait while he went a little ahead to see if he could spot the musk oxen. He saw them, but they were too far away, and he, who knew the mountain inside and out, recommended turning back and trying again the next day. It would take 2-3 hours to reach the musk oxen and 3-4 hours to return. We listened to Even and started to turn back. Somehow, it gave me new strength, the feeling of security of having Even with us. Without him, we would never have made it. We were back at the car around 15:30, completely exhausted and hungry.
I looked at Joris and said, "Don't you learn from your mistakes?"
Back at the cabin, Joris and I were so happy to come in from the cold. We unpacked our bags, charged the batteries, and drank lots of water. Joris showered first, and I worried he would take all the hot water. He took a long shower, but so did I. We gathered in Even and Jorunn's cabin to eat together and plan for the next day. We were so tired, and we would do the same thing again the next day. Joris and I weren't so excited about going up the "killer hill" again (we named it that). Even showed pictures from the mountain on his computer, and what pictures they were! So beautiful and majestic. It somehow gave us new strength and motivation and a longing for tomorrow for a new attempt to find the musk oxen and photograph them. When Joris and I were back in our cabin, we started planning the packing. Joris, as stubborn as the day before, decided once again to bring his tripod. Even though we felt like our legs were spaghetti. I left my Canon 5D at home, but everything else came along. I looked at Joris and said, "Don't you learn from your mistakes?". He looked at me and said, "I made it here; I'm going to have beautiful pictures, that's it. Everything's coming with me! All for the perfect picture." We laughed and continued packing. That night we fell asleep quickly.
Day 2 came, and we went through the same routine as the day before. Up early, eat breakfast, load the bags into the car, and go. Even wanted us to try another place this time. We avoided the "killer hill," and it was a relief. I focused on not letting the wind fool me, took one step at a time, forward, fully focused on finding the musk oxen. This day, thankfully, we didn't have any harsh wind, and it felt easier to walk with yesterday's trials in mind. It was tough but possible, and it was clear how much the weather affected our mood. After about 1.5 hours, Even stopped and looked through his binoculars. He turned to us with a smile and said, "Now I see a herd. We will be able to photograph them today." We went from being tired to being excited and overjoyed. Soon we would photograph them; soon we would see musk oxen in their cool and natural environment.
Even said it would take about 30 minutes to reach them. We continued to hike, and every step felt like we were close to the goal. This was what we had come for. We had longed for so long, counted the days until the trip, prepared as best we could. Now the moment was near, as if a dream were about to come true, and it did.
Everything was magical; the cold, the wind, the exhaustion. I was in a fairy-tale world that still was so real and tangible.
FIn front of us was a herd of six oxen. I saw them. So big and so majestic, and the beautiful and epic place we were in was their home. Even said we needed to keep a distance of at least 200 meters. He decided how we should move and from where we should photograph. We need to be alert and listen to all the information Even conveyed to us. It was really noticeable that Even had great respect for nature and how he planned our position to disturb the animals as little as possible, but also for our safety. These were big and wild animals. Not something you just walk up to and photograph if you don't know what you're doing.
I put down my backpack and took out the camera. I took it easy, didn't want to rush. I wanted to take in the whole sight. The beautiful landscape together with the musk oxen in the changing weather conditions. Everything was magical; the cold, the wind, the exhaustion. I was in a fairy-tale world that still was so real and tangible.
It's moments like that on the mountain that give me meaning, a purpose to continue my photographic journey.
It was right there and then that I felt something strong within me start to grow. This was my calling. This was where I felt so alive; this was where I became free. This was how I wanted to live my life, as an adventurer. To explore, experience, learn, document, and create content that reflects what I see. I hope it naturally leads to me conveying a sense of and knowledge about nature and caring for its development.
After a while of photographing, I put the camera down again, let my brain take in all the impressions, enjoyed the moment, enjoyed the meeting, the feeling when the big animals looked back at me, with such calm despite our presence in their home.
It's moments like that on the mountain that give me meaning, a purpose to continue my photographic journey. A lovely feeling that remains like a rush of happiness. My first visit to Dovre two years ago wouldn't be my last.
I already long to be embraced by the peaceful silence and the mighty views again.
The way back to Sweden went quickly. I came home again with a memory card filled with pictures, and I was an experience richer. The flashbacks that keep popping up in my brain always bring a smile to my lips.
Since my first trip two years ago, I have returned to Dovre two more times. Each visit has deepened my love for this magical landscape and strengthened my conviction that I belong in nature. The next trip is already planned for February 2025, and this time we'll be camping on the mountain. I already long to be embraced by the peaceful silence and the mighty views again. Dovrefjell has not only enriched my photo album; it has also enriched my life. Many thanks to Even and Jorunn for giving us the opportunity to visit this fantastic place with guided tours and world-class service. If you also dream of experiencing the arctic nature up close, I highly recommend Moskusguiden. Their passion for nature and their expertise made our trip to Dovrefjell an unforgettable experience.
Take a piece of Dovre home with you and let yourself be enchanted by the grandeur of nature every day.
I've selected some of my favorite images from my adventures in Dovrefjell, which are now available for order as beautiful art prints. Explore the beauty and tranquility of this extraordinary landscape and bring a piece of Dovre home with you, allowing yourself to be enchanted by the grandeur of nature every day.
